Today I crest the hill I started climbing up yesterday. It might not seem like much of a climb, 400m, but when I start walking up it at just after 6am, the conditions are hard going. 7 degrees, and some extra from the wind chill. My head torch guides me up the hill. I'm not prepared for these conditions, so every layer I have is on me, including my rain jacket.
The bus journey to Astorga takes me past pilgrims walking along the road. There's a lot of that on the Meseta, particularly the second half. Maybe I'll come back and check that box, for now, let's skip ahead to the good bits. Leaving Astorga, a pretty town centre with a cathedral and Gaudi designed building in the centre, I see the countryside start to transform.
My 'rest' day involves only a 13 km walk to the next town to catch the 921 bus to Leon. I wake at 4am, and due to the nighttime chorus, only drift for an hour. I walk in the dark, mostly with the torch off, when the path is wide and straight. It's exhilarating, being alone in the dark.
Today, there's a 19km stretch without any town. We've been told there's stop trucks along the way, but still, it's a long way. I had thought to do this stretch in addition to the previous day, making a gloriously batshit crazy 38 km hike. My foot grudgingly thanks me for not doing that.
Today is the day I slow down and walk with people. I wake up at my usual time, five something. Then I realise I have to wait for over an hour before even thinking about getting up. OK, it's fine. I'll wait for the chance to share my day.
I'm in a dark dormitory room at 2200. The lights went out half an hour ago.