· James Torr · Personal  · 2 min read

Today is the day I slow down and walk with people. I wake up at my usual time, five something. Then I realise I have to wait for over an hour before even thinking about getting up. OK, it's fine. I'll wait for the chance to share my day.

Day 15: Fromista to Carrión de los Condes, 19km Today is the day I slow down and walk with people.

Today is the day I slow down and walk with people. I wake up at my usual time, five something. Then I realise I have to wait for over an hour before even thinking about getting up. OK, it’s fine. I’ll wait for the chance to share my day. I get ready and eventually my roommate is ready, though I’m waiting around for a little bit too long. Am I cranky? Maybe? I’m a bit tired, but bloody hell mate, how long does it take to put shoes on?

We meet our little group at a bakery, grab coffee, it’s nice to see folks, though I’m definitely a bit less chatty than last night. When we set off, I think it takes me only a short while to realise my pace is quite different. After an hour or two, I end up walking quite far ahead of my group, and eventually leave them about 2/3 of the way. They’re so slow!

I hope the reader realises that I’m being a bit faux-grumpy here. It’s a little counter to yesterday’s gushing optimism. My need to be part of a little group went up against the reality of the small sacrifices we make to follow the trail of others. We compromise our behaviour, our speed, our needs to be part of the collective.

Going-wise, it’s 19km of walking alongside a road. All day. I grumble a bit to an young Italian called Alessandro. “It’s all part of the way”, her replies. I grudgingly agree before pressing ahead, I may have carried on groaning to myself, or the next group.

Before the day heats up too much, it’s going up to about 35C, I make it to the hostel. I’m on my own, but I’m followed by an adjacent Italian, Donato. I recognise other folks, two more Italians in a separate group, a Brazilian called Ricardo. My group arrive a few hours later. I went at my own pace but I still get to have dinner and drinks with them later on today. Separate, but not isolated. I guess I both had and ate that slice of tortilla.

Photo 1Photo 2Photo 3Photo 4Photo 5Photo 6
Back to Blog

Related Posts

View All Posts »
Day 27: Arzúa – O Pedrouzo 19.4 km

Day 27: Arzúa – O Pedrouzo 19.4 km

I awake in the dorm, my mind skips around in the dark, the muffled light snoring entering my ears through my plugs is a comforting sound, but not enough to send me back to sleep. The last few days have seen our little group become very close. Tomorrow is the beginning of the end of that particular form, and the end of 28 days of walking for me. The thought of this starts some waves of overwhelming emotions.

Day 26: Palas de Rei – Arzúa	29.2 km

Day 26: Palas de Rei – Arzúa 29.2 km

Today is the last big day before arriving in Santiago. 29 km, 6 hours walking straight. With breaks, it ends up being more like an 8 hour day. Breakfast in cafe central from the night before is a "Napolitano": a pan au chocolat, and a cafe con leche, with milk always because the Spanish coffee is, let's be charitable here, more drinkable with milk. Our small group joins up with the Spanish couple from the previous night who are having breakfast outside their hotel, a place that looks like The Overlook Hotel had a lovechild with a brutalist Soviet block of flats.

Day 25: Portomarín – Palas de Rei	25 km

Day 25: Portomarín – Palas de Rei 25 km

My French walking companion and I decide to leave early to avoid the crowds. It takes us about an hour to pass most of them in the dark before we're ahead of the pack. Like the Tour de France, but with trekking poles, backpacks with shells hanging off them and dorky outdoor clothing. When we finally get to the top of the hill, we're almost at the sunrise, it's marvellous view, and we're almost on our own. We stop at a cafe for breakfast, others catch up.