· James Torr · Personal  · 2 min read

After yesterday's intense climb and descent, today's walk is a relatively easier 31km, but mostly on flat. After walking along a road for an hour or so, I enter one of the many Camino scenic route "diversions". It's pleasant enough, with a view over Ponferrada as the sun is coming up. After another hour or so, my French friend catches up with me, and we spend the rest of the day walking together. We stop for evening primrose, cat cuddles, stork nests, mimosa flowers, cottonwood groves, run down houses, broken balconies, scarred grey poplar.

Day 20: Molinaseca – Cacabelos 31km

After yesterday’s intense climb and descent, today’s walk is a relatively easier 31km, but mostly on flat. After walking along a road for an hour or so, I enter one of the many Camino scenic route “diversions”. It’s pleasant enough, with a view over Ponferrada as the sun is coming up. After another hour or so, my French friend catches up with me, and we spend the rest of the day walking together.

We stop for evening primrose, cat cuddles, stork nests, mimosa flowers, cottonwood groves, run down houses, broken balconies, scarred grey poplar. The country is low, rolling but not flat.

Arriving in Villafranca, after over six hours hiking. The city is beautiful, but my legs groan at the hilly aspect of the town. I check in, do the usual: clean, clothes wash, bed down. After a while, I walk into town, surprised I still have something in me. Guess I’m getting stronger. My blister is complaining less. I sit in the square and watch the world go by over a few glasses of local white. The sun is out, the people pass by. Pilgrims who have been walking the same journey for three weeks say hi. I’ve only been walking a short while but a few to me. An Irish couple who have left their small farm behind, they say hi, and later thank me for pace-setting a tough stretch for them by buying another glass. I sit with a Columbian and German lady who I’m sharing my hostel with.

Dinner back at the hostel is later than usual. Leftover pasta, tomato sauce. I share the kitchen with a friendly Italian couple from Trentino. Same city as another Italian I walked with early on. So many Italians, I’m grateful I speak it quite well.

Tomorrow, there’s a climb, up to O Cebreiro, info Galicia. I’m not apprehensive as I’ve not read anything about it. Today was the day I needed after the intense climb and descent into Molinaseca. Gentle, but varied, with a great finish.

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